You can only find this magical hidden corner of the city if you're not afraid to wander around the narrow winding streets of El Carmen district for a while. Start at Plaza de la Reina. With the cathedral straight in front of you, turn left along a short passageway and you'll come to Plaza del Milagro del Pañuelito. In the surrounding streets and alleys you'll find some lovely little craft shops along with stores that specialise in making mirrors and picture frames as well as a few good restaurants and cafes. The names of the streets remind you of the now-forgotten trades that were plied here, like tapestry makers, belt makers and scribes.
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