Lost amidst all the Snowmass ski hype is its cross-country center. It offers 80 kilometers of groomed double-tracks, making it perfect for enjoying the area's eye-protruding scenery at a leisurely pace. And better yet, it is free. An on-site pro shop rents skis and snowshoes, and offers demo packages by Fisher and Salomon. Tuning and all-important waxing are available. Even when the shop closes, the course is open 24 hours a day. Skiing under a full Colorado moon is something worth experiencing.