Going into GUM (an acronym for 'State Department Store', its post-1917 name) might restore your breath after you've visited Red Square and Lenin's Mausoleum. Though it may seem like a fairly ordinary big mall at first, stand still and you can take in the splendid view of the spectacular glass ceilings, the railings, and the central fountain. Built in the 1880s to replace older trading booths and initially called the Upper Trading Stalls, GUM has always been a huge shop with hundreds of departments, many of which are now expensive boutiques. The first of its three floors has stores such as Levi's, Clinique, Estée Lauder, Benetton, Nike, Galeries Lafayette and other foreign shops. Check out the Lego store window - the constructions on display are incredible and include a miniature St Basil's. There's also a good stationery shop, a wide selection of fur hats, a small hardware shop, several Russian snack bars and some foreign cafés.