If you have never been to Dublin before and want to experience what it was like here before Ireland's fin-de-siécle economic boom and resulting social self-posturing, head for Grogan's. The seemingly immortal owner and barman, Tommy, presides over the second home to a heady mix of artists, writers, street performers (or at least they'll tell you they are), ageing hippies, students and diehard locals. There's no music, but you won't really notice because there's a unique atmosphere created by a city-centre pub with great Guinness, no pretensions and friendly staff who will make you a lovely ham and cheese toasted sandwich, even at 10.30pm on a Saturday night.
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