Santiago
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Around the city
Santiago, like other big cities, is a busy and somewhat stressful place, with people running around from one place to another, and no time to stop to observe the beautiful and interesting places that surround them. Of such places, right in the center of Santiago, is the walk which starts at the Casa Central de la Universidad Católica, one of the most prestigious centers for study and research in the country. It is very easy to get to. Simply make your way, by underground, to the station that bears the same name. It is surrounded by university cafés and bars, which make it a very lively area.
Right in front of the University is Calle José Vistorino Lastarria, which is where one begins to experience the peace and quiet of the area, particularly if compared to the noise and activity of the Alameda, or Bernardo O'Higgins Avenue (the main avenue in Santiago). Lastarria Street has a very pleasant atmosphere, heightened by such places as the theatre and Cafe del Biógrafo, on the corner of Calle Villavicencio, and restaurants like those on the Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, opposite Calle Rosal, where one can also find handicrafts and bookshops or visit a museum of pre-Colombian cultures. Another special place in the street is the Iglesia de la Vera Cruz (Vera Cruz Church), declared a national monument, which stands out in spite of its size.
When you come to the end of the street, cross Calle Merced and Calle Monjitas, and you will come to the Parque Forestal. Going eastward through the sculptures and variety of trees (oriental plane trees, palm trees and plum trees), you will come out to Calle Pío Nono. Just before you get there, to your left, is the recently opened Teatro del Puente, where you can enjoy theater plays on the river Mapocho.
Along Calle Pío Nono, towards the north, you come to one of the most entertaining and interesting areas in Santiago, Bellavista. Bars, discotheques, restaurants, cafés—you can find anything here. This is where the poet Pablo Neruda chose to live. You can end your walk paying a visit to his house La Chascona. If you turn right, along Calle Antonia López de Bello, and then left again along Constitución, you will eventually come out onto Calle Fernando Márquez de la Plata. At the end of this street, Neruda's house stands out from the others.
Through Santiago
In the midst of the grey of the city of Santiago, you will find one of the largest green areas in the capital: the Parque Metropolitano, which features 712 hectares of green land across the hills of San Cristóbal, Chacarillas, Pirámide and Blanco. The easiest way to get to the park is to get off at the Baquedano underground station and walk northwards along Calle Pío Nono until you reach the Bellavista area.
The main hill of the park is San Cristóbal, a true symbol of the city, being higher than its neighbors and topping 860 meters. The hill became an attraction when, in 1908, the Monumento a la Inmaculada Concepción (Monument to the Immaculate Conception) was erected, a statue of the Virgin Mary some 14 meters in height. Before that, the hill hardly had any vegetation whatsoever. In 1921, works started on the hill to make a green public pathway, and six years later the works were completed. Today, it is one of the most attractive and popular places in Santiago. Apart from the green spaces, it also holds the Zoo, home to 170 animal species. There are also two swimming pools, a picnic area, a square for children to play in, a chapel, the Jardín Botánico Mapulemu (Mapulemu Botanical Gardens) and the wine cellar, where all sort of events take place. The most impressive thing about it, however, is the breathtaking view of Santiago, even more spectacular if you happen to go on a clear day after it has rained, or at night, when you can see all the city lights. Of course, for the best views go to the cable railway (Pedro de Valdivia underground station).
It is also a perfect place to get some exercise, play sports and ride a bicycle. You won't be alone, particularly if you go on a Sunday, because it is full of people walking or practicing sports.
Tour of the Plaza Fundacional
This visit to the heart of Santiago includes the Plaza de Armas and the religious, cultural and institutional buildings nearby. It will take about three hours, but it is best to do it in the morning on a weekday, except Mondays, which is when most of the museums are closed.
Your starting point is the underground station Universidad de Chile. Four blocks further north, along the Paseo Ahumada, is the Plaza de Armas. Spanish conqueror Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago in 1541 and made this square the reference point in measuring the country. In the surrounding area is the Cathedral of Santiago, which was destroyed several times by various earthquakes. In 1745, its reconstruction was begun, and between 1780 and 1789, Joaquín Toesca finished it, imposing a classical and baroque style on the building. Two additional towers were built towards the end of the 19th century. Inside, one can visit the tomb of the Cardinal José María Caro, the first cardinal of Chile, as well as paintings and gold ornaments. Inside, you will also find the Museo de Arte Sagrado (Museum of Sacred Art), where religious objects, furniture, a silver lectern and manuscripts from the times of the Colony and the Republic are kept.
On the north side of the square is the Correo Central (The Central Post Office), which was built in 1882 in the place that was once the Palace of the Governors of the Colony. After the effects of a fire, it was refurbished in 1908. Now, the second floor is an interesting Telegraphic Post Museum, with displays postal and telegraphic history and an interesting stamp collection. The building next to it is the Palacio de la Real Academia, which is now the site of the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum). The palace was built towards the end of the colonial period, between 1804 and 1807, and was then home to the highest court in the country under Spanish control. Don't miss the chance to visit this museum. It has a collection of some 12,000 items related to the history if Chile, from pre-Colombian times to the 20th century.
Your last stop in the Plaza de Armas is the Municipalidad de Santiago (the Town Hall of Santiago), a neo-classical building which was used as the jail during the period when the city was founded.
Along Calle 21 de Mayo, one block northwards and on the corner, is the Santo Domingo Church, next to the new convent. On Thursdays it is open all day. The church was finally opened in 1771, after three previous earthquakes. Between 1795 and 1796, José Toesca was in charge of it. After another disaster in 1963 (this time a fire), the church was restored to its original shape and form.
Back to the square and along Calle Merced, towards the south, you will find the the Casa Colorada, built in 1779 as the residence of Mateo de Toro y Zambrano, who, in 1789, bought the title of Conde de la Conquista (Count of the Conquest) from the Spanish Crown. Inside is the Museo de Santiago, with a permanent exhibition of objects from the pre-Hispanic period to the Republic. On the corner of the Casa Colorada is the Edwards building, built between 1892 and 1893.
Further along Calle Merced, to the east, is the Basílica y Museo de la Merced (Basilica and Museum of Merced), a beautiful and impressive building which once belonged to the order of the Mercedarians. After several earthquakes, the present building was erected in 1760. Here lie several important figures of Chilean history such as Rodrigo Quiroga and his wife, Inés de Suárez and Mateo de Toro y Zambrano.
As you head back towards the Plaza de Armas along the same street you will get to Calle Bandera, where the Real Casa de Aduana and the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Chilean Museum of Pre-Colombian Art) stand. This colonial building was built between 1805 and 1807, following Toesca's style. Inside is the museum, opened in 1981 by the town council of Santiago. It is certainly worth a visit. The collection exhibited comprises some 3,000 items that take visitors through the history of pre-Colombian America, before the discovery of the continent. There is also a shop, which sells books, magazines and ceramics in the building.
In front of the museum is the building of the Tribunales de Justicia (Courts of Justice), declared a national monument, much like the former Ex Congreso Nacional building. Behind these buildings lies the Palacio Edwards, also known as the Palacio Septiembre (September Palace).
The city center of Santiago
It is recommended that you start this tour at Santa Lucía underground station. Outside the station and to the northeast is the famous Cerro Santa Lucía (Hill of Santa Lucía), known as Huelén by the natives and later named Santa Lucía by Pedro de Valdivia. From 1872 to 1875, 150 prisoners worked on it to make a public pathway. We recommend you go during the day and keep away from deserted areas.
If you go back down towards the underground station, and then down Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins, you will soon come across the Biblioteca Nacional (National Library). This impressive French-style building was built between 1913 and 1924. Inside, don't miss the Medina room, which holds the most important collection of papers from the Indies in Latin America.
Further down the same avenue, you will eventually get to Calle San Antonio. On the left is the Iglesia y Museo de San Francisco (Saint Francis' Church and Museum), built between 1586 and 1628 for the Franciscan congregation. This is the oldest architectural monument still standing today in Chile. If you turn right down Calle San Antonio, and past Calle Moneda, you will get to the Teatro Municipal, which is well worth a visit. The main cultural activities in Santiago (opera, ballet and concerts) take place here. Opened in 1857, it later suffered the effects of a terrible fire in 1870, and an earthquake in 1906. However, it has been rebuilt and refurbished in keeping with the original design.
On your way out from the theatre, head along Calle Agustinas. On the corner of Calle Estado is the Templo de San Agustín (Saint Augustine's Temple). Also the victim of several earthquakes, it has been restored several times (in the 18th and 19th centuries). Inside is the Cristo de Mayo (The Christ of May), famous all over the country for bleeding, rumor has it, during the 1647 earthquake.
Down Calle Estado, turn onto Calle Moneda and continue walking westwards. You will pass by the Iglesia de las Agustinas (Augustinian Church), which is worth stopping for. Afterwards, continue down Calle Moneda and you will get to the famous Plaza de la Constitución (Constitution Square), surrounded by important public buildings. There you will see the monument in homage of Diego Portales, one of the most important statesmen in the history of Chile. You will also have the chance to see the change of guard (from 10am to 10.30am). In front of the square is the main entrance to the Palacio de la Moneda (Palace of the Mint). This was built in the 18th century specifically for the purpose its name states. However, after Chile gained independence in 1846, President Manuel Bulnes made it into the residence of the presidents of Chile, and it served as such until 1958. Today it is the Government Palace and the official building of the Presidency of the Republic. It is possible to arrange guided tours, giving 20 days' notice, at the palace administration office.
Other places nearby which are also worth paying a visit to are the Plaza del Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins (opposite the Palacio de la Moneda), the Club de la Unión, the Bolsa de Comercio (the stock exchange) and the Universidad de Chile.
