Molokai
Historical Background

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Ancient Moloka'i

Like its sister islands, Moloka'i is the result of prehistoric volcanic activity. It was pushed to the surface of the Pacific Ocean some 1.5 billion years ago, but has seen significant geological change since then. The northern coast eroded into the ocean long ago, and Molokai's land mass now stretches 250-square miles (the fifth-largest in the Hawaiian chain), with over 100 miles of coastline.

Science aside, Molokai's creation is the subject of many myths. As one legend has it, Moloka'i was a god and priest, born of two deities. As another legend goes, a fisherman caught a piece of coral on his hook, but was advised by a priest to throw it back. This occurred several times, and, as a result, the corals grew into what we know now of as the Hawaiian Islands.

It is believed that Molokai's original settlers migrated from the Marquesas, as well as from Tahiti and a few other remote South Pacific locations. They arrived as early as 650 AD, bringing with them all the agriculture and supplies they needed to survive. A complex social system was formed, based around spirituality and nature.

Prophets, Sorcerors and Religion

The prophet Lanikaula lived during the late 16th century and was one of the most revered in Hawaii's history. Pilgrims ventured from all the islands to seek out his advice. For this, among other reasons, Moloka’i was sanctioned from war and considered a place of retreat. Lanikaula is perhaps most famous for his prophesy to King Kamalalawalu. He predicted that, should the king join in a battle to win the Big Island, he would meet with defeat. This ominous warning enraged the king, who promised to burn Lanikaula alive upon his return. However, he could not keep his promise, as he died in that very battle.

The trees of Maunaloa are another legend of Moloka'i. It is said that they were invaded by poisonwood gods. They were cut down, in accordance to the wishes of the gods, by a man named Kaneikama, and made into god-images which were thought to cause fatal illness. This legend contributed to the reputation of Moloka’i as a spiritual center, to be respected and feared by other islands.

Remnants of spiritual Old Moloka'i can still be seen today. The ancient religious site of greatest public interest is the heiau (holy ground) found on the eastern shore. Known as Ili’iliopae, this was once a site of ritualistic human sacrifice. There are several other heiau on the island.

Birthplace of Hula

As legend has it, the ancient art of hula was first conceived on Moloka'i. According to the legend, the Goddess of the Hula (Laka) was born at a holy place in Ka’ana. This birth is still celebrated every year in May. Perhaps the best way to understand the island's relationship with hula is by understanding the name of the yearly festival, ‘Molokai Ka Hula Piko’–Moloka'i, center of the dance.

Control of the Island

Moloka'i passed through the hands of many chiefs and many other islands during the time between its Polynesian settlement and the arrival of the Europeans. The islands of Maui and O'ahu were in a constant struggle to gain control of the island. By 1795, a Big Island chief named Kamehameha had taken control of the entire Hawaiian island chain, using the war machines found on a captured British ship.

British explorers discovered the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, but at that time Moloka'i was, for the most part, passed over. In fact, it was not even visited by Europeans until 1786.

Industry on Moloka'i

Colonization in 1792 resulted in several industries springing up on Moloka'i. What had previously been uncharted territory became a hub of the Hawaiian sugar trade. Cattle ranchers began to set up ranches on the island and Hawaiian cowboys (known as paniolos) became a common sight. Like most of its sister islands, Moloka'i also became a focus of the pineapple industry, although not until the 20th century. Pineapple remained an island mainstay until about a decade ago.

The Darkest Times

Moloka'i was always respected as a spiritual center of the islands. It was a safe-haven during war, and home to some of the greatest spiritual leaders in Hawaiian history. It seemed natural that its role would carry through into more modern times. However, a decree by a 19th-century Hawaiian king nearly changed the face of the island for good.

After Kamehama's takeover, he headed a movement that resulted in complete evacuation of Molokai's Kalaupapa Peninsula. In 1865, he confined those suffering from Hansen’s Disease (then known as leprosy) to the desolate area, where they were then left to live out their days in suffering. This was the lowest point in Molokai's history. The Kalaupapa colony became ridden with alcoholism, while most of its residents were in the deepest state of despair. In 1873, a Belgian priest named Father Damien arrived on Moloka'i, bringing with him a renewal of faith and hope for residents of the colony. Although Father Damien did not meet with a storybook ending, he renewed Molokai's reputation as a healing island. Many retreats are housed on the island now, and it offers solace to those seeking an escape from modern-day stress.

Overview

Moloka’i is a small island with a very small population (under 7000 currently) and very little industrial activity. It has been a source of much inter-island conflict over the years and has rarely been in control of its own land and people. Regardless of whatever strife may have occurred, however, it has maintained a level of Aloha not seen elsewhere—even on the other Hawaiian Islands. Outdoor enthusiasts and adventurous travelers love Molokai, for the land in most places is wild and untouched by commercialization. Its people are still nearly 40 percent Hawaiian, earning Moloka'i the title 'Most Hawaiian Island'. It is renowned as a unique, authentic place that has remained unaffected by the passage of time, and is regarded as a spiritual center and a place of retreat.