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District Guide

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With a population of only half a million people, Vientiane is a relatively compact capital, so most districts that are of interest to visitors are fairly close to each other and easily accessible by foot or bicycle. For longer journeys tuk-tuks or taxis are the way to go, or the more intrepid traveler can hire a motorcycle. In terms of orientation, Vientiane is divided into villages, or bans, the names of which can be useful to know when trying to direct a tuk-tuk driver.

Around Talat Sao
The two-story, covered Morning Market (Talat Sao) is the true center of Vientiane, with the main post office, bus station and tourist information office nearby, as well as a number of banks and government offices on the surrounding streets. While the market itself is a shopper’s paradise, plenty of other buying opportunities are worth checking out in this area. Opposite the southern side of the Talat Sao and next to the post office is the Ethnic Handicraft Market, featuring goods from every province in the country. On the eastern side of Talat Sao is the central bus station for travelers heading north, south or west, and next to it stands Talat Khuadin. The covered part of this market sells dry goods very similar to those offered in Talat Sao, but often at a slightly cheaper price. For a truly local experience, venture to the uncovered back section. There you will find rickety stalls planted on the dirt floor selling local produce--everything from fruits and vegetables to freshly slaughtered pigs, heads included.

Opposite the western side of Talat Sao are a number of banks and the immigration office should you need to extend your visa. The Royal Dokmaideng Hotel is also located here. Lovers of history and architecture will enjoy the French colonial buildings of the area, as well as the Presidential Palace. The oldest surviving temple in Vientiane, Wat Sisakhet, and Ho Phrakeo, a former royal temple which now operates as a museum, are of particular interest.

Ban Mixay and Ban Sisaket
These two districts lie next to each other west of Talat Sao and contain three of the main arteries of Vientiane--Samsenthai Road, Setthathirat Road and Fa Ngum Road, which run parallel to each other. This area is also where most tourists eat, sleep, drink, and spend money, and it is thus filled with restaurants, guesthouses, shops and Internet cafes.

Samsenthai Road is home to the high end Lao Plaza Hotel, as well as less fancy accommodation options including the Asia Pavilion and Lao-Paris Hotel, and numerous budget guesthouses. It is also something of a cultural hub with the National Stadium, Lao National Museum and the Lao National Culture Hall all standing within a stone’s throw of each other.

Connecting Samsenthai and Setthathirat Roads are a number of side streets, the busiest of which is Pangkham Street, lined with tailor shops and terminating at Nam Phu Fountain. Around and near the fountain are a number of good eateries, including Le Provencal, L’Opera, the Scandinavian Bakery, Khop Chai Deu and the Gourmet Mediterranean Delicatessan. On Setthathirat Road you will also find the National Library, Satri Lao Silk, more restaurants, pubs, guesthouses, cyber cafes and a number of temples.

Fa Ngum Road sits on the bank of the Mekong River. Many small streets that connect with it reward exploration with some great souvenir and handicraft shops, including Mandalay Furniture and Camacrafts. Fa Ngum Road is home to the Lane Xang Hotel, as well as numerous restaurants. Very enjoyable are the open-air eateries with terraces overlooking the river, serving local beer and food, as well as a variety of foreign cuisines.

Chinatown
This small area of roughly half a dozen streets is best seen at night, when it comes alive with a myriad of food stalls lining the pavement. On one street you will find cakes and pastries, on another fresh fruit and on a third a selection of savory treats and fresh soymilk. This is also the place to come for a cheap dim sum lunch or a Japanese feast at Kitchen Tokyo. On a more mundane note, it is also where most of the laundry and dry cleaning services in Vientiane are to be found.

That Luang
The northern part of the city is centered around That Luang, the most important and sacred temple in the country. Aside from the temple itself, the main points of interest for visitors are That Luang Market, the That Luang Dok Mai Plant Market and Patuxai Monument.

KM4
The rest of the city consists mainly of residential areas, holding little interest to the visitor, with the exception of KM4. This is, literally, four kilometers from the city center along Tha Deua Road. During the day it is a good place to shop for cane and rattan ware, including furniture. At night there are a number of restaurants and entertainment venues clustered close to each other, including the KM4 Restaurant, Watchnaraporn, Lao Bowling Centre, and Queen Bee and Meena nightclubs.

All in all, the minuscule size of this capital city makes it very easy to navigate. The curious will be able to explore intricacies of the different neighborhoods with ease. The less adventurous, though, need only to find his or her way to the Mekong by sunset, pull up a seat and watch the sun return to the depths of the river.

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