Minneapolis/St. Paul
District Guide
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When driving through the Twin Cities, it's sometimes hard to discern which city you are actually in. There is no visible dividing line; the cities really do blend into one another. Despite this, some say that the differences are vast. St. Paul is a bit smaller than Minneapolis, lending it more of a hometown feel. Minneapolis is considered more cosmopolitan, and is certainly larger. Some people from St. Paul may say that Minneapolis is a den of vice, whereas people from Minneapolis may think of St. Paul as being too quiet, with its empty nighttime sidewalks. Of course, neither of these is a completely accurate picture. Most visitors flit back and forth between the two cities to enjoy the charms of each.
Minneapolis
Downtown/Theater District/Nicollet Mall
Minneapolis is known as "The City of Lakes." Famous for its beautiful chain of lakes and annual summertime Aquatennial festival, the city also boasts a thriving downtown with a world-class theater district. Remember that scene at the beginning of "The Mary Tyler Moore Show," when Mary flings her hat into the air with careless abandon? That took place on Nicollet Mall, the bustling shopping corridor that runs parallel to the Hennepin Avenue theater district. From its grubby, tough beginnings as a lumber and grain mill town, Minneapolis has changed into the Crystal City.
Mill Area
On the riverfront end of the city, renovation is underway on the Milwaukee Road Depot, a project that includes restaurants, a hotel and a skating rink. Many old mills still stand along the river, and they are slowly being remodeled for other uses. Across Washington Avenue, many old warehouses are also being renovated to revitalize the area. Open Book is a literary center in the area housing four major book-oriented organizations. The Metrodome is just a couple blocks further in.
Warehouse District
Follow Washington Avenue across Hennepin Avenue, and you come to the Warehouse District, a hot spot for nightlife. Rosen's, South Beach, or Chez Bananas might be the spot for your next night out.
Uptown
A little south of downtown on Hennepin Avenue is the district known as Uptown. Uptown is the Minneapolis equivalent of Greenwich Village. Dotted with coffee shops and vintage clothing stores, it is a throbbing blend of bohemian and cosmopolitan. At the corner of Hennepin and Lake is Calhoun Square, full of shops and restaurants. Don't miss Famous Dave's Bar-B-Que, where the atmosphere replicates the experience of being under the El in Chicago, complete with a train going over every few minutes. Head left on Lake and you can hit Cheapo for a vast selection of used CD's and a backroom full of pressed vinyl.
The Lakes and Linden Hills
As Hennepin Avenue winds away from Uptown, it hits 36th Street. Take a right here, and follow it directly to one of the favored recreational lakes in the area, Lake Calhoun. Hop on a trolley around the lake, or join one of the many people skating, running, or biking on the path around it. Calhoun is just one in the chain of lakes that lies south of downtown. To the south of Lake Calhoun is the Linden Hills neighborhood. Linden Hills is full of little antique and gift shops, and don't miss the Turtle Bread Company. Their chocolate bread will melt in your mouth!
Nordeast
On the opposite side of downtown, take the Hennepin Avenue bridge to the other side of the river where there is an assortment of restaurants and nightspots. You will find some of the best Eastern European food in the cities, along with Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian, and American. Polish and Ukrainian immigrants made this area their home early in the 20th century. The area is known as Nordeast (being northeast of downtown), and it is popular with the University crowd.
Dinkytown
The University crowd is so pervasive, in fact, that they have created their own little city, called Dinkytown. In this area, crowned by the Dinkydome, you can find many bastions of college life: bookstores (try Cummings Books, a great little nook with tons of gems), coffee houses, sports bars, clothing stores, fast food, music stores, restaurants, and copy centers. The streets resemble a little village, in an area that's only about four square blocks. Frat houses line University Avenue, along with the imposing castle buttresses of the ROTC.
Cedar/Riverside
On the other side of the river is the West Bank campus, which abuts the Cedar/Riverside area. If you want international, authentic and direct, try Cedar Avenue. African, Asian, Indian are all represented here. Intercontinental Video offers a wide selection of international films. This street is also the scene of Cedarfest, an annual August music festival that draws a diverse crowd. If it's pierced or tattooed, you'll see it at Cedarfest. The bars along this little strip are hot music venues, and what they lack in elegance they make up for in sound.
St. Paul
Midway/Frogtown
University Avenue continues on past the frat houses, over Highway 280, and into St. Paul, running parallel with I-94. On this main drag, you can pull up in your car for a chilidog at Porky's. Classic car buffs still bring their showy vehicles here on summer evenings. The area from Cretin to around Lexington is known as the Midway. Many of the establishments along this strip date from the 50s: the Turf Club, Christiansens, and Midway Bank. You will find a few places to while away an afternoon. Midway Used and Rare Books, with three floors of books, is prominent on the corner of Snelling and University Avenue. Further down University Avenue, past Lexington, is what is known as Frogtown. The area is fast becoming a center of Asian businesses, with a variety of markets, restaurants and services.
Como
Between Snelling and Lexington north of University Avenue is the Como area, containing the green jewel of Como Park. Como Park is home to Como Park Zoo, Como Park Conservatory, Como Golf Course, the Como Lake Pavillion, and acres of green space for picnics, games and outings. To the west of the Como area, across Snelling, are the Minnesota State Fair Grounds. Events are held on the grounds year-round. Just north, across Highway 36, is Rosedale Shopping Center.
Downtown St. Paul
The downtown St. Paul interchange was dubbed "Spaghetti Junction" some time ago, but it has vastly improved in recent years. Across the freeway from the Capitol is the heart of downtown, with the Minnesota History Center easily visible from the freeway. The St. Paul riverfront has undergone a face lift over the last few years, just like Minneapolis. Recently renovated co-op loft apartments, the brand new Science Museum built into the bluff, and the new arena, RiverCentre, all line Kellogg Blvd along the river. The Ordway Center for Performing Arts, Heartthrob Cafe, and the Children's Museum are all located downtown as well. Each January the century-old Winter Carnival is celebrated in St. Paul. Many of the events take place downtown in Rice Park, in front of the Landmark Center.
Cross the river on the Robert Street Bridge, and you will find Harriet Island to your right. This is the home of the Covington Inn and the No Wake Café. Take a riverboat ride on one of the boats of the Padelford Packet Company.
Cathedral Hill to Highland Park
Overlooking downtown on the west is the St. Paul Cathedral, which is open to visitors. The area there is aptly known as Cathedral Hill, and business and government workers from downtown gather for lunch in the bars and restaurants in the neighborhood's Victorian-era buildings. The popular Costello's and W A Frost on Selby Avenue offer tasty food and a solid selections of beverages. Further west from downtown between I-94 and Ford Parkway, from Cretin to Snelling, are three private colleges. This concentration of college students makes for many energetic neighborhoods: Highland Park, Macalester-Groveland, Merriam Park, and Crocus Hill. Grand Avenue is lined with shops, restaurants, and bars. This area is heaven for those who like to browse, drink and eat. Get here early on a Friday, or be prepared to walk a few blocks; parking isn't easy. One block up from Grand is Summit Avenue, one of the greatest extant neighborhoods of Victorian architecture in the country. Starting at the James J. Hill House as a two-lane street, Summit turns into a broad, sweeping parkway, separated down the middle by a parklike island that is frequented by joggers and strollers. Summit Avenue house tours are offered Saturdays during the summer and other tours, such as Garden Tours, are offered throughout the year. James J. Hill House tours are also available year-round.
West Seventh Street
The West 7th Street corridor still holds some vestiges of the good old days. Here you can still find the traditional supper club, such as Mancini's Char House or Parrish's Supper Club. Famous Dave's has a location on this stretch. Although the Pearson's Salted Nut Rolls plant recently retired their trademark giant candy bar sign, Mickey's Diner is still staying put, in all its neon splendor. You can find the other Mickey's Diner downtown, across from the Greyhound Bus Depot. This 1930s dining car is on the National Register of Historic Places, and has been featured in many movies. West Seventh Street eventually runs into Highway 5, which runs directly to the airport.
There is so much to see and do in the Twin Cities that it's hard to know where to start. The best advice is to just get started. Spend a few days meandering. No matter where you hit, you are bound to find what you're looking for, even if it's just a bit of relaxation.
