Dublin
Entertainment
add to Travel Bag (NEW)
Unlike some of its European counterparts, Dublin still remains a relatively compact city that can easily be negotiated on foot. Whether your interest be historical, literary or cultural, or if you simply want to relax, Dublin offers a range of interesting diversions in a stylish and increasingly cosmopolitan environment. Some would argue that the social life of Dubliners still revolves around the pub (see the Drinking & Dining guide), but if you're staying within the immediate city centre, you'll find plenty of alternatives to nursing a pint of Guinness right on your doorstep.
Literary Attractions
Boasting no less than four Nobel Prize winners to date, Irish writers are famed the world over. The first stop on any literary related excursion to Dublin would have to be Trinity College. First established in 1592, the university is home to the famed medieval manuscript, the Book of Kells, and also has associations with Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, Edmund Burke and Oscar Wilde. The nearby Merrion Square is also steeped in literary heritage. The former home of both Oscar Wilde and W.B. Yeats, the square boasts an impressive central garden and a beautifully camp memorial to Wilde himself. The spectacular St. Patrick's Cathedral and adjacent Marsh's Library are associated with satirist Jonathan Swift, while devotees of the playwright George Bernard Shaw can visit his birthplace in a restored Victorian house at 33 Synge Street.
Dublin's north-side is also rich in literary attractions. Still a focal point for much of Ireland's new dramatic writing, the Abbey Theatre was originally founded in 1904 by W.B. Yeats and played host to plays by Sean O'Casey and J.M. Synge's infamous Playboy of the Western World. More contemporary dramatists such as Brian Friel, Frank McGuinness and Marina Carr have all had premieres staged here, and the Abbey's sister theatre, the Peacock, continues to promote new writing. Theatre buffs may also be interested in the Gate Theatre, which was first founded by Hilton Edwards and Edward MacLiammoir in 1928.
For those less familiar with Dublin's literary contributions, a visit to the Dublin Writers Museum may be in order. Located on Parnell Square, the museum's collection includes an impressive array of photographs, paintings, first editions and memorabilia, all of which offer an excellent introduction to Irish writing in general. The popular Chapter One restaurant is located in the basement of the museum.
While there is a plethora of writers and dramatists associated with the city, Dublin was undoubtedly best captured by its supreme chronicler James Joyce. Despite popular conjecture, Joyce wasn't awarded a Nobel Prize, but his influence on both world literature and culture has been staggering. Ulysses still remains the novel by which most others are measured, and its labyrinthine structure name-checks countless city landmarks, the most immediately obvious of which is the Martello Tower in Sandymount. While the majority of Dubliners would probably admit to having not actually read the novel, the city celebrates its Joycean heritage on June 16th. Increasingly becoming a high-profile event, Bloomsday recreates the events that take place over the novel's 24-hour time span, and plays host to festivities all over the capital. The James Joyce Centre on the elegantly restored North Great Georges Street organises the event, and remains a focal point of activity all year round.
Museums and Galleries
Given the fact that Dublin is still a relatively small city, there is an impressively wide range of galleries and museums within walking distance of the city centre. For those interested in the history of Ireland, a visit to the National Museum is certainly advised. Based on two sites, the Museum houses artifacts which date from 7000 BC to the present day. The original Kildare Street site was first opened in 1890, and features examples of Celtic and medieval art such as the famous Ardagh Chalice, Tara Brooch and the Derrynaflan Hoard. The museum also houses a fascinating exhibition dealing with the turbulent 1916-1921 period of Irish history, which led to independence. The impressive Collins Barracks site, meanwhile, is based in the oldest continuously occupied barracks in the world and is Ireland's museum of the decorative arts and of economic, social, political and military history. Those seeking a more contemporary image of Ireland should check out the Gallery of Photography in Temple Bar.
The Chester Beatty Library , originally owned by the American engineer Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, houses a fine collection of Early Christian, Islamic and East Asian manuscripts, paintings, prints, icons and books. Those conducting genealogical information should pay a visit to the National Library, which offers research facilities that are second to none.
The Natural History Museum on Merrion Square was first opened in 1857. Particularly popular with children, the gallery has a Victorian, almost Gothic feel to it, and appears to have remained wholly unchanged since the 19th century. In an age of computer-aided exhibits and technology, it provides a marvellous glimpse at the mausoleum-museums of days gone by; and poking through its range of grotesque stuffed animals, bottled insects and bizarre flora and fauna is a surprisingly fascinating way to spend an afternoon.
While not having the fine art legacy of other European cities, there are also several excellent galleries in Dublin, where Ireland's relatively little known artists can be appreciated. The National Gallery is an essential stop-off in an exploration of the history of Irish art. A Jack B. Yeats room displays the paintings, notebooks and other artefacts from this important and compulsively creative Irish family. A five minute walk from the National Gallery is the RHA Gallery on Ely Place. The RHA displays exhibitions from the more successful of living Irish artists, as well as significant retrospectives and the annual National College of Art and Design degree showcase.
The development of the Temple Bar Gallery and Studios has been a prime example of the maturing of the Irish arts scene. In the 1980s and '90s, artists took over a dilapidated building in the then run-down Temple Bar area and set up studios and a gallery. With the design of the area as a cultural quarter, the gallery enjoyed a major refurbishment and is now one of the more important contemporary galleries in the city. The Taylor, Kavanagh, Kerlin galleries are all also worth a visit.
Adjacent to the Garden of Remembrance, a stone's throw away from historic O'Connell Street, the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art is probably the most significant gallery on Dublin's northside. The Hugh Lane houses an impressive permanent collection and a series of ongoing contemporary art exhibitions.
A short walk from the city centre, the Irish Museum of Modern Art is well worth a visit. Located in the stylishly refurbished Kilmainham hospital, IMMA always has something interesting on show, with ongoing exhibitions of both Irish and international art. The museum has hosted successful retrospectives of Andy Warhol and Joseph Beuys, amongst others, and the permanent collection of modern art is also essential viewing. A children's response room and artists in residence add to the modern art experience in this fine 18th century building.
Live Music
Dublin's live music scene is as vibrant and as happening as ever. Sporting slickly designed interiors and accompanying nightclubs, music venues draw a variety of established Irish and international acts, the more popular of which generally play at larger capacity venues like the Olympia Theatre.
For atmosphere, quality and character, however, Dublin's smaller pub venues are still where it's at. Whelan's on Wexford Street is probably one of the best music venues in the city: with great acoustics, a friendly and loyal crowd and a spectacular balcony view of its tiny but perfectly adequate stage. Whelan's is a great place to catch up-and coming Dublin bands and emerging international acts, usually of a rock, folk or alternative variety, and the cover charge is always reasonable.
If traditional Irish music is your thing, you're not exactly spoilt for choice. Some of Dublin's more authentic pubs like the Cobblestone, the Harcourt Hotel, O'Shea's and O'Donoghues feature trad sessions, but the quality varies considerably from night to night.
Sport
Sport is hugely popular in Ireland and for many it is more than a matter of national pride, but a way of life. The Gaelic Athletic Association, which was first founded in 1884, drew up rules and regulations for native, indigenous sports, and was just as much a political movement as a recreational one. Members of the GAA were even banned from playing English sports. In recent years, however, Gaelic games like football, hurling and camogie have arguably been superseded in popularity by international and British soccer tournaments, not least because of the Republic of Ireland's qualification for the World Cup in 1990 and 1994. GAA games during the championship season, however, still draw huge crowds to Dublin.
Golf is also extremely popular in Ireland and Dublin boasts approximately 55 different links, most of which are located in suburban areas, including the internationally renowned Portmarnock Golf Course, which has hosted many major championships including the Irish Open. Many of these clubs are privately owned, however, and require membership of a golf union. A number of smaller clubs such as Hollystown, Stepaside, Elm Green and the Swords Open Golf Club, operate a green fees policy and are within easy reach of the city centre. More information, including a list of private courses, can be obtained from the Golfing Union of Ireland. The Murphy's Irish Open is one of the highlights of the professional golf calendar and is held every July. Other marvelous courses are located within an hour's drive of the city, including the magnificent K Club and Mount Juliet.
Ireland also boasts some of the finest fishing locations in the world, although Dublin is not exactly spoilt for choice. Coarse fishing options can be found along the river Liffey, the Royal Canal, the Dodder and the Grand Canal, while Dublin's coastline offers excellent sea fishing opportunities. Dun Laoghaire, Howth, Skerries, Dalkey and Killiney beach are all good locations. Permits can be obtained from most fishing tackle shops. A state licence is required for river fishing for salmon or sea trout from the Fishery Board. Sea, rock, beach or canal fishing does not require a permit, however.
Children
Although not always apparent from first glance, Dublin offers a wealth of attractions for both the young and young at heart. The Dublin Zoo is a popular haunt, making for an enjoyable and often educational afternoon. The Ark in Temple Bar is Ireland's only cultural centre for children, regularly hosting exhibitions, theatre performances and workshops. Cinemas, of course, remain always reliable, particularly on rainy days, and with several well-situated theatres like the Savoy and the UCG Multiplex on offer, you should be spoilt for choice.
