Montreal
Dining And Drinking

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Montreal is the second biggest French city in the world, but you wouldn't necessarily know it based on its restaurants. Its incredible assortment of ethnic cuisines gives an accurate reflection of the myriad of cultures that contribute to the city's vibrancy, although unlike some other large North American centers, eateries here tend not to cluster according to cuisine type.

Naturally, the city does boast some outstanding French restaurants. Traditional, buttery fare and old-guard opulence can be found at the venerable Les Halles or the Ritz Carlton's Café de Paris. L'Express lays claim to the best steak-and-frites, among many other bistro favorites. Meanwhile, on the nouvelle cuisine frontier, chef Normand Laprise's fusion masterpiece Toqué! garners international attention while draining the coffers of the gastronomic elite.

Generally speaking, Montreal's culinary institutions are slightly more plebeian in nature. Many trace their origins to the Anglophone middle and upper classes, whose grip on the local economy was once far stronger than it is today. The city's large Jewish community has also contributed heavily to the local cuisine. The Montreal bagel, a skinnier and less polished version of the New York variety, is an economical staple that purists buy from the Fairmount or St-Viateur bakeries in Mile-End. And while comparing Montreal Smoked Meat to pastrami is sure to raise the hackles of any traditionalist, no visitor should neglect to visit the cramped, dingy quarters of Schwartz's Delicatessen.

Brunches or late breakfasts are extremely popular ways to start the day, though whether this is a wholesome tradition or the result of a weekend's heroic consumption of cocktails is up for debate. Mont-Royal Avenue is home to Beauty's, the oldest and best-known brunch spot, while Eggspectation is more modern operation that boasts massive portions and glitzier decor. Unfortunately, both establishments sport ponderous lines on Sunday starting at around 10a. On the bright side, these good-natured queues serve as great places to soak up local atmosphere and gossip.

The Plateau Mont-Royal is an area of older residential buildings and is home to thousands of students, artists and young professionals. St-Laurent Boulevard's trendy clubs and pubs mingle with dozens of restaurants that run the gamut from upscale, decor-first hotspots (Buona Notte) to innovative sandwich shops (Grano), and from the cheap Italian fare at Euro-Deli to the steaks and buckets of coleslaw at Moishe's. If you are unsure where to go, following the crowds on St-Laurent is a safe bet.

A 10-minute walk east from St-Laurent will bring you to charming and bustling St-Denis Street, which is not to be missed especially during the summer. This is perhaps Montreal's most Parisian thoroughfare, offering restaurants, bars and cafés, most with cozy patios shoe-horned in wherever they can possibly fit. You could easily spend hours watching the world go by over a café-au-lait, a beer or a meal. The aforementioned l'Express and Toqué! can be found in the restaurant-rich strip between Sherbrooke Street and Mont-Royal Avenue, along with scores of smaller establishments of every conceivable ethnicity.

The narrow, residential streets of the Plateau conceal some gems, most notably a tight-knit community of French bistros where patrons are invited to bring their own wine. Exemplified by Le P'tit Plateau, Bistro l'Entrepont and Au Petit Resto, these intimate, romantic spots serve some of the best food in the city at table d'hôte prices rarely exceeding CAD20. They are great places at which to appreciate local life and practice your French. Prince Arthur Street, located between St-Laurent Boulevard and Laval Avenue, also offers many BYOW (bring your own wine) options. However, with a few exceptions (notably the stick-to-your-ribs Polish fare at Mazurka), the food at these heavily tourist-oriented establishments is fairly middle-of-the-road.

Downtown, many bars and restaurants are found on Crescent and Bishop Streets. In the past, this was where the Anglophones came to eat, drink and be merry. This area overflows with tourists in summer, so it is best to know where you are going before you go; mediocre food is an unfortunate but avoidable fact of life here, as are high prices. Other downtown hotspots include the Old Dublin, which whips up great pub grub and fiddles each night away with live music.

Though hardly comparable to the Spanish or Italian, Montrealers do eat late, especially on weekends. Most restaurants will be open to diners by 6:30p, but it's best to make reservations for 8p or later if you want company. Downtown hotels tend to direct their guests toward downtown restaurants and nightlife, not out of any animosity or collusion but simply because many tourists are reluctant to venture farther afield. The key to enjoying the hundreds of restaurants and bars that the city has to offer is to be adventurous; you are unlikely to be disappointed.